Stage-1 Land-Rovers, and later, have a removable chassis cross-member under the transmission which greatly eases removal of the transmission (in one piece). Some owners of S1-S3 have modified the relevant (fixed) chassis cross-member of those vehicles to make it removable for this reason.
- LA.
From: "WILLIAM L. LEACOCK" (75473.3572@compuserve.com) Date: 04 Jul 95 21:37:04 EDTThe first rule of clutch problems on a ser 2 or 2a is to check the cross pins in the joint tube from the clutch slave cylinder bracket to the clutch shaft on the gearbox, by check I mean take them out and be sure that they are in one piece, they often break into two pieces and the parts stay in place, however the break creates a lot of backlash in the system and the lost motion results in gear grating or an inabilty to clear the clutch to change gear. If thay are broken use a long 1/4 dia bolt, ie. one in which the plain portion is over an inch long.
Date: Mon, 3 Jul 1995 09:38:00 +0100 (BST) From: Peter Aslan (paslan@uk.mdis.com)The Plan: Try seperating the Engine and Gbox without removing the Gbox completely, jut rolling it back on a trolly jack under the thing. The manual states you can remove the clutch by seperating the Engine and Gbox by 5 inches.
So, to the plot: Remove as follows:
1. Front floor pannels.
2. Gbox tunnel.
3. Flywheel cover.
Now to support the Engine at the rear, to allow the Gbox to be removed. Jackup Engine, problem here in that where do you put the jack, in the end I used a large piece of wood under the sump, when lifting the whole LR moved upwards, no discernable increase in the gap between the flywheel housing and crossmember, cant get my recommended 1 inch piece of wood between. So I use a smaller wedged piece of wood instead. Note, when you start to jackup the Gbox, this gap opens up fine.
Next the Prop Shafts, Front at the Gbox end, rear at the diff end, (easier to get to). Are these things supposed to go back Exactly as they were removed ??
Undo the Handbrake arm from the rod out of the drum, disconnect the Earthing Strap to the Chassis. Remove the Bolts from the Gbox mounts. Jack up the Gearbox, comes up fine, problem in supporting it though, as the thing is such a weard shape and where is the balance point ?? Bits o wood and stuff later, and I'm undoing the Bell housing from the Flywheel cover, some nuts come off, some remove the studs. In retrospect, the next part would have been easier if all the studs had some out.
With the Engine/Gbox disconnected, I 'jiggled' the Gbox back about an inch, then through judicial use of a crowbar, in the true tradition of the LandRover, managed to part the two items by about 4-5 Inches. the manual says 5 Inches is enough [...].
Then a lot of struggling underneath to no avail, try a jack between Gbox and crossmember, something sticking, but what ? Cant see anything under here.
Later, sanity set in and I removed the Seat Base, the thing I was trying to avoid. The Gbox could not move back because it was fouling the Handbreak bracket on the Left, and the Exaust Pipe on the Right. Anyhow, by jacking up the thing and Jiggling it somemore, I managed to achieve seperation, enough to get at the bolts securing the clutch to flywheel, blody locking washers though, and with the gbox there, very tight.
The friction plate fell out, and looks fine, loads-o-meat. Havent looked at the Clutch machenism yet, but am now suspicious of the release stuff.
Stay posted for art 2.
Regards,
Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton). Louden Quill Award. email: paslan@uk.mdis.com [7/'95]
Date: Mon, 24 Jul 1995 09:05:54 +0100 (BST) From: Peter Aslan (paslan@uk.mdis.com) Subject: Clutch problem conclusion.You may recall my urgent call for help with a clutch slip problem, clutch slip getting progressively worse, the hotter the engine got, or the more it was used. BTW, this is a 1960 Mk2 Land Rover.
Well, I tried pulling the Gbox 5 inches back to get at the clutch, like it says in the manuals. Do Not Try this at home. I feel its a complete waste of time. You spend ages getting all the fiddly bits, like the hand break, propshafts exaust and all removed, its easier to just pull the box. Oh and if you do manage to get the box pulled back, like I eventually did, its blody hard getting at the bolts which hold the clutch cover to the flywheel, then you've got to release the lock tabs as well.
So I eventually hired a lift and pulled the box. Replaced the Cover, and the plate. A Local LR place quoted 54 Quid for a new friction plate, Cradocks didn't have one in stock, got one from Paddocks for about 19 Quid.
Saturday; new clutch everything went in, and I put the G'box back in. Took all morning to get everything all hitched up and ready. First test showed that the clutch Pedal now went all the way to the floor,
Engine showed that it wasn't disengaging. Turns out that, as I replaced the flexible hose, the slave cylinder had returned to the top of its travel, and now wasn't activating the clutch properly, (This is Clue No 1 to the Original problem).
I removed the return Spring on the Slave Cylinder, the arm then drops down to take up all the slack in the system, (Clue No 2).
I re-attach the spring, the actuating arm doesn't move back up, and the clutch pedal now moves the clutch, disengaging it, but the pedal now stops half way down, ie doesn't hit the floor at all, (3 and Final Clue).
This whole thing got me thinking, the Slave cyliner wasn't going back to the top of its range of movement, it's starting point, the pedal was bottoming out premeturely because the slave piston had hit the end of it's travil and was hitting the end circlip.
More diagnostic work required. I bled the Slave cylinder with return spring attached, it now returns to the top of its travil, and is re-set. Now sit in the driving seat and Pump the Clutch 60 Times, graduly the pedal gets harder and harder, and I notice the Slave cylinder push rod is no longer going back to its starting point, its like i'm pumping up the system, graduly pushing the Slave cylinder further and further out.
At this point I was a bit confused by words like, 'Self adjusting' in the manual, is it possible that this things working right, and Its self adjusting its self to take up the slack in the actuating mechenism. 'Bollocks it is', when the Clutch pedal is fully up, the whole hydraulic system should vent to the resovior, otherwise how could the system conpensate for tempeture, the thing gets hot, fluid expands and it will just push the slave cylinder out a bit.
I now decided that I'd done enough thinking and needed to start wrenching, I kept thinking, you'r not going to find the answer but just looking at it. I removed the inspection cover on top of the Clutch master cylinder adjuster, where the pedal piviots, interestingly enough, NO FREE PLAY. Boy is this thing fiddly, Its a bit like trying to put the Nylocks on the Bal joints, you turn the nut and the rod moves and theres nothing to hold to stop it turning. Anyhow, one pair of sniped nosed pliers later I managed to back the nuts off enough to get some free play in the master cylinder, and when I let go the master cylinder arm I noticed a sound from the cylinder that was the system venting itself as the Master Cylinder was now fully out, (hard to think of the right word here).
So, with this play in the master cylinder, the system now works fine, the slave cylinder now re-seats its self every time, no more 'pumping up' the system.
The problem I now have, is that there's so much slack in the links and stuff at the actuating arm attached to the slave cylinder, like beyond all feasable adjustment, that I'm going to have to fabricate some plates to move the cylinder down against the mechinism so it thrown the clutch out enough and at the right place.
As you depress the Clutch pedal there should be about an eighth of an inch free play, (this is the slack in the master cylinder), then about a quarter of an inch of less free play (in the Slave Mech), and the clutch should then start to disengage or seperate.
Thats it, God I feel better now I've figured this out. Now I can get back to the Harvest.
Regards,
Peter Aslan (aka Captain Norton). Louden Quill Award.
Date: Sun, 7 May 1995 22:05:16 -0500 From: rover@pinn.net (Alexander P. Grice)The following is a reprint from the Spring, 1995 issue of "The Gearbox", the quarterly newsletter of the Rover Owners' Association of Virginia. Written by Jim Allen of "Stateside Beat" column fame in LRO, it is the best description of that most mysterious mechanical linkage (at least to me) the center differential. The article is a response to a previously-published article by Stefan Jacob. In fact, Stefan asked that I post this; it should probably be included in the FAQ. It is, however, about 20k of text. Cheers, all.
Thought I'd give you some input by responding to a tech tip from Stefan Jacob in the last issue [of "the Gearbox"] and add a bit to Bill Maloney's comments on getting passed the spectre of emissions testings. I'm still enjoying the newsletter greatly, especially the tech stuff.
I have to respectfully disagree with some of Stefan's comments on Range Rover center differentials. Before I get into the meat 'n taters, let me qualify myself by saying that my information comes from six years as a factory-trained (read: Solihull) Land Rover line technician, two years as a Land Rover Driving Instructor and many other years just mucking about with Land/Range Rovers in general.
The centre diff works the same way. Under the right circumstances, if you put both front and one rear wheel on pavement and the other rear on ice, the one tire on ice is going to spin and the Rover will just sit there. We're talking the manually locked center diff here (LT-95, LT-230), not the Borg-Warner unit with the VCU (viscous coupling unit) that automatically locks the center diff when slippage is sensed.
OK, so with the center diff unlocked, the system can transfer power to the wheel with the least amount of traction. If you lock the center diff, the power is split 50/50 between the front and rear, just like the conventional transfer box on your alder Land-Rovers. The centre diff is then coupled and spins as one unit.
Stefan was quite correct in saying that it's unnecessary and undesirable to lock the centre diff on the road for the same reasons your wouldn't put your Series Land-Rover into four-wheel. Tire and drivetrain wear are accelerated on highly tractive surfaces and even a wet road qualifies as highly tractive. An icy or snowy road where you are spinning just one tire in an attempt to move is an exception, though driving icy roads with the centre diff locked can be treacherous; the same advice would apply to standard 4X4's in four wheel drive.
Stefan is also absolutely correct to warn against applying diff lock whilst you've got lots of wellie applied. You either want to be in diff lock before you get to the wildly spinning tire stuff (not the best way to drive, anyway) or you want to: 1) back off the throttle, 2) engage the diff lock lever, 3) wait 'til the light come on (the sure indicator that it's actually engaged, since the light reads off a sensor in the t-box) and 4) get back on the fuel feed. You don't have to push in the clutch to engage diff lock (you couldn't anyway with the auto tranny) but being gentle doesn't hurt if you have the option.
Here is where Stefan and I part ways: If you are in terrain that's more than the family sedan can handle - engage the diff lock! Why? Once you start getting into low traction situations, you start that centre diff to working hard. It's actually very small and not as robust as the diffs in your axles. Gears a-spinnin', its starts to get hot, especially if "Joe's Genuine Recycled Gear Oil" that you put in can't keep up with the lubrication needs. Shimmed with brass behind the diff gears, once they loose lubrication, from heat generally, they melt down and/or get spit out in chunks. The gears then walk around, get cockeyed and break. Sometimes the broken chunks will lock the unit into one piece and you will find the vehicle in truly permanent four-wheel drive. If it doesn't lock up, you stop.
With the centre diff locked, power is transferred through the much stronger centre diff housing instead of the gears. In diff lock, the unit is stronger than unlocked and no more vulnerable to breakage than any other 4X4, V-8 engine, first gear, wide open throttle and blocked wheels notwithstanding.
Stefan is correct on the importance of not having the handbrake adjusted tight in order to keep the heat down and not melt the seal. Most of the older Range Rovers I worked on were '87-88 automatics, and most owners didn't use the handbrake anyway. I saw few seal problems related to heat.
Anyway, the oil level gets low due to the rear seal leak and lack of attention. What goes first? Your got it - the centre diff. It spins its shims out and there you go - buying a $1,100 centre diff assembly. The moral? Update your seals to the latest spec, check oil levels regularly and don;t overdo the handbrake adjustment. Stefan was also spot-on about the vent hoses and the importance of keeping them clear.
LT-230s are somewhat noisy by nature, and it's actually rare to find a totally silent one. This is the #1 Discovery complaint right now. Most times, the "LT-230 whine" will last 200,000 miles. If the noise is there from the beginning and never changes over a long period, you can probably ignore it. If it arrives suddenly or changes pitch, you ought to investigate further.
Two LT-230s exist: the LT-230R and the -230T. The "R" unit has roller bearings on the intermediate shaft gear and was used in early RR, 90s and 110s with high range ratios from 1.003-1 (the RR auto with Torqueflite), 1.412-1 (early 90 four cylinders and the 110 V-8) and 1.667-1 (early 110 four bangers).
The "T" unit has tapered roller bearings on the intermediate gears and nearly the same ratios in the same applications, except that the ZF automatic Range Rovers use a 1.22-1 high range gear, as do Discovery 5-speeds and auto and V-8 Defender 90s. The T-unit is the better box. R-unit boxes have a tendency to have thrust washer trouble on the intermediate gear, as did the LT-95 box. Bearing whine on the T-unit can often be traced to improper bearing preloads on either/both the inter gear bearings and the centre diff housing.
If you change your diff oil and find lots of brass, you've got centre diff problems. Often, you'll have trouble getting it out of diff lock along with the brass chunks. The centre diff on an LT-230, incidentally, can be removed in-situ without removing the t-box. Don't wait too long to reshim the centre diff or you may have to buy the whole unit.
The LT-95 (four speed box) has the trans and t-box in one unit. That means if you really grenade the t-box, the entire housing must be replaced. The LT-95 was a very good unit overall. Intermediate gear bearings and shims were the most common failure. Next would be the vacuum servo that locked the centre diff. The latest (early 1980's) models are the best.
The Borg-Warner t-box is nearly trouble free. A rare failed VCU and an occasional leak is the usual trouble, though most of them soldier on with no problems. They are not quite as strong as the LT-230s, though. In an off-road abuse "duel to the death," the LT-230 would come out on top. From a customer standpoint, however, the BW unit is great. User friendly and lacking of day-to-day mechanical vices (like leakage), look for this unit to end up in the Discovery very soon.
*----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"----*
| A. P. (Sandy) Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia |
| 1633 Melrose Parkway, Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
| E-mail: rover@pinn.net Phone: 804-622-7054 (Day) |
| 804-423-4898 (Evenings) FAX: 804-622-7056 |
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